LRCC

Well, thanks to Graeme the Dormobile is more or less complete again... I have an original wardrobe sitting in the back, requires some work but it looks fab in position (need to refix the mirror as it fell off..lol). Due to some corrosion on the fixed panel to the left of the door, there is scope for modification, which I am now considering!

In addition, the elusive missing dormatic front drivers seat is replaced! This seems to be of similar vintage but requires re-covering. I bit the bullet today and took the vehicle around to the car upholsterers around the corner (support local) and she confirmed that they all need to be recovered (I was born in Yorkshire, I had to ask ). I was hoping they could maybe re-use some of the original trim, but they confirmed that it wouldn't survive the re-padding experience. So, I am awaiting a quote and she is off looking for a decent substitute (square of fabric liberated from new seat), fingers crossed!

I have secured 4 x NOS door seals, so that is a start, still need to find some other replacement bits and now the reverse lights are working again Can someone tell me how on earth you stop the wardrobe seat/step from swinging around when you are drivin (it is only temporarily fixed)?

Have attached rubbish picture....

Dan

Getting there Dan - looking good

Cheers Robin!

Not really, but you are very kind to feed me positivity!! The real work starts next month when the 9:1 head is fitted, the clutch and engine seals are changed, overdrive fitted and the chassis gets a full wax... The seats should be recovered and I should have sorted the wardrobe.. I then have to fit the door seals, do the swivels (have decided to replace both fronts with new as they leak something chronic and I want to set up the pre-load accurately). Then it is new tyres, clean and wax, auxillary battery, mains hookup, split charge, switch to positive earth (maybe LPG as I have secured a second hand system), new floor covering... Fluids, new gas and then... camping

Ah, should be all sorted for March then

this might help for the split charge system

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthrea ... rge-System


Your wardrobe door / seat rattle because you havent got the spare wheel up against it properly!

(I use a bungy on mine)

DanC wrote:Cheers Robin!

Not really, but you are very kind to feed me positivity!! The real work starts next month when the 9:1 head is fitted, the clutch and engine seals are changed, overdrive fitted and the chassis gets a full wax... The seats should be recovered and I should have sorted the wardrobe.. I then have to fit the door seals, do the swivels (have decided to replace both fronts with new as they leak something chronic and I want to set up the pre-load accurately). Then it is new tyres, clean and wax, auxillary battery, mains hookup, split charge, switch to positive earth (maybe LPG as I have secured a second hand system), new floor covering... Fluids, new gas and then... camping

why swicth to positive earth?

DanC wrote:Well,how on earth you stop the wardrobe seat/step from swinging around when you are drivin

Dan - the Wardrobe should be secured at top & bottom by studs & nuts, and the step/seat should be closed by bolts, like the kitchen unit cupboard.

First - I meant negative earth...doh

I have the studs and nuts to bolt the cabinet to the vehicle, all present and correct (Previous owner left the nuts in a little Martin Walters bag, even though the original wardrobe was abandoned years and years ago somewhere?).

The bottom step has no means of fixing in place? There seems to have been some sort of plastic bracket on it once, but it does not correspond with anything on my vehicle. My vehicle also has some strange fixing lugs under the wardrobe, sort of square with a small hole through, bolted in two locations?

Alex, really useful link, thanks ;)

AlexB wrote:this might help for the split charge system

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthrea ... rge-System

When I used a simple relay system like that (for a caravan aux socket) I connected the relay coil to earth on one side and to the alternator charge lamp connection on the other. That way the relay will only operate when the alternator is actually charging.

Not sure if a 100A relay would require more current to operate than supplied in that way, but I was using a 40A relay which worked fine.

The problem with wiring it up to the ignition switch is if the aux battery has been flattened, as soon as you switch the ignition on, it connects the starter battery to the aux, which would be a heck of a drain

The last couple I've done, I've used a voltage sensing relay. That makes sure the starter battery is fully charged before switching to the aux battery. Easier to wire up as well

Feel free to draw me a wiring diagram Robin, I am rubbish at the dark arts of electric! I am toying with keeping the dynamo, makes hand cranking easier when I drain all the power...lol

Dan